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Septic systems are used when sewage
treatment plants are not accessible. They safely treat and dispose of
wastewaters produced in the bathroom, kitchen, and laundry. These
wastewaters may contain disease-causing germs and pollutants that must
be treated to protect human health and the environment. Although
septic systems are usually a permanent solution to wastewater
treatment and disposal, they sometimes serve as a temporary solution
until sewer lines are installed.
There are a number of different
septic systems, each with its own design. The conventional system is
the one most commonly used in North Carolina (Figure
1). It consists of three main parts: the septic tank,
the drainfield, and the soil beneath the drainfield.
The septic tank is a watertight
concrete box about 9 feet long and 5 feet
tall. It is buried in the ground just outside the home. The tank is
usually precast from reinforced concrete and can be purchased from
concrete manufacturers. While typically designed with a 1,000-gallon
liquid capacity, the size of the tank is legally determined by the
number of bedrooms in the home. The tank temporarily holds household
wastes and allows a small amount of pretreatment to take place (Figure
2).
The tank is connected to the
drainfield by a buried pipe. A typical drainfield consists of two to
five trenches excavated into the subsoil. In many systems, a
distribution box or a flow divider helps move wastewater to each
trench. In most conventional septic systems, the trenches are 3
feet wide, 2 to 3 feet deep, and 9
feet apart. In each trench, a 1-foot thick layer
of washed gravel or stone is placed around a 4-inch-diameter
perforated distribution pipe. After the trenches are covered with
soil, the area must be landscaped to keep surface waters from ponding
over the drainfield.
The drainfield has also been called
the nitrification field or the soil absorption field. The sole purpose
of the drainfield is to deliver wastewater to the soil. The soil
purifies the wastewater by removing the germs and chemicals before
they reach the groundwater or any adjacent surface waters such as
rivers, lakes, and estuaries.
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Figure 1. A conventional
septic system.
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Figure 2. A two-compartment
septic system.
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All of the wastewaters from the home
should flow into the septic tank. Even waters from the shower,
bathtub, and washing machine can contain disease-causing germs or
environmental pollutants. As wastewater flows into the tank, the
heavier solid materials settle to the bottom (forming a sludge layer),
the lighter greases and fats float to the top (forming a scum layer),
and the liquid (sewage effluent) flows out of the tank. An outlet
baffle (or a sanitary tee at the outlet end) prevents solids from
flowing out with the liquids. The tank's primary purpose is to retain
the solids while releasing sewage effluent to the drainfield.
The real treatment of the wastewater
occurs in the soil beneath the drainfield. Sewage effluent flows out
of the tank as a cloudy liquid that still contains many
disease-causing germs and environmental pollutants. Effluent flows
into the perforated pipe in the trenches, passes through the holes in
the pipe, and then trickles down through the gravel to the soil. As
effluent enters and flows through the soil, many of the bacteria that
can cause diseases are filtered out. Some of the smaller germs, such
as viruses, are adsorbed by the soil until they are destroyed. The
soil can also retain certain chemicals, including phosphorus and some
forms of nitrogen.
Unlike a sewer system, which
discharges treated wastewater into a body of water, the septic system
depends on the soil around the home to treat and dispose of sewage
effluent (Figure 3). For this
reason, a septic system can be used only on soils that will adequately
absorb and purify the effluent. If a septic system is installed in
soil that cannot do so, the effluent will seep out onto the soil
surface overlying the drainfield. In addition to causing an unpleasant
smell, this untreated effluent can pose health problems.
In some cases where the soils do not
adequately absorb the wastewater, the toilets and sinks might not
drain freely. If the soil can absorb the effluent but not treat it,
the sewage may contaminate the groundwater.

Figure 3. Wastewater
treatment and disposal in the soil.
(Adapted from Tyler et al.,
1977) |
Gently sloping, thick, permeable
soils with deep water tables make the best sites. The soil should be a
uniform brown, yellow, or bright red, and it should not have spots of
gray, which often indicate that it is excessively wet. The soil
texture should be neither too sandy nor too clayey, and it should have
good aggregation, or structure (that is, a handful of the soil should
easily break apart into small aggregates). Avoid areas that have rock
close to the surface, very sticky clays, or soil layers that restrict
the downward flow of water.
There are more than 400 kinds
of soils in North Carolina, more than one of which are often found
within a 1-acre lot. Because many of these soils are
unsuitable for septic systems, you should always have your county
environmental health specialist (sanitarian) conduct a comprehensive
soil and site investigation. If you are considering purchasing a piece
of land for a homesite, you can obtain additional information from the
Cooperative Extension Service publication (AG-439-12),
Investigate Before You Invest.
Usually, the drainfield can fit
within the front yard or the backyard of a typical 1-acre homesite.
The precise area requirements will depend upon the kinds of soils at
the homesite, the size of the house (the number of bedrooms), and the
topography of the lot. A site with clayey, slowly permeable soils
needs a larger drainfield to absorb the sewage effluent than does a
site with sandy, permeable soils. Adequate land area must be available
to isolate the entire septic system from any nearby wells, springs,
streams, lakes, or other bodies of water. There also must be enough
area to install a replacement system in case it is ever needed. This
replacement area must meet the same soil and site requirements as the original
system.
State law requires that soils be
evaluated by the local health department and that an improvement
permit be issued before house construction begins or the septic system
is installed. Also, the installation must be approved by the health
department before electrical service can be permanently connected to
the home and the septic system put into use.
Both the septic tank and the
drainfield must be properly maintained. With conscientious
maintenance, the system should work correctly for many years. Such
maintenance begins with water use and waste disposal habits. Since
your family will determine which materials enter the system, you
should establish rules for proper use and maintenance.
The suggestions outlined in the box
will save you anguish and money when applied to most conventional
systems. More sophisticated systems require additional maintenance,
possibly at much greater cost. Also, recent rule changes now require
owners of some alternative septic systems and community septic systems
to hire a certified operator to maintain their systems. For more
information about these requirements, contact your local health
department.
- Do not put too much
water into the septic system; typical water use is about
50 gallons per day for each person in the
family.
- Do not add materials
(chemicals, sanitary napkins, applicators, and so on)
other than domestic wastewater.
- Regularly add septic enzymes to maintain a healthy system, replacing dead enzymes and bacteria.
- Restrict the use of your
garbage disposal.
- Do not pour grease or
cooking oils down the sink drain.
- Make a diagram showing
the location of your tank drainfield and repair
area.
- Install a watertight
concrete riser over the septic tank to simplify
access.
- Periodically have your system inspected, and if there's a need for it, get the
solids pumped out of the septic tank.
- Maintain adequate
vegetative cover over the drainfield.
- Keep surface waters away
from the tank and drainfield.
- Keep automobiles and
heavy equipment off the system.
- Do not plan any building
additions, pools, driveways, or other construction work
near the septic system or the repair area.
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After a few years, the solids that
accumulate in the septic tank should be pumped out and disposed of at
an approved location. If not removed, these solids will eventually
overflow, accumulate in the drainfield, and clog the pores (openings)
in the soil.
This blockage severely damages the
drainfield. While some clogging of soil pores slowly occurs even in a
properly functioning system, excess solids from a poorly maintained
tank can completely close all soil pores so that no wastewater can
flow into the soil. The sewage effluent will then either back up into
the house or flow across the ground surface over the drainfield. If
this happens, you may need to construct a new drainfield on a
different part of your lot. Pumping the septic tank after the soil
drainfield has become completely clogged will not rejuvenate the
system. It will provide only a few days reprieve until the tank fills up
again.
The frequency with which you will
need to pump depends on four variables: the size of your tank, the
volume of your wastewater, the regular use of good "bacteria" that keep a healthy system, and the solids content of your wastewater.
If you are unsure about when to have the tank pumped, observe the
yearly rate of solids accumulation. The tank should be pumped if the
sludge layer has built up to within 25 to 33
percent of the liquid capacity of the tank. Therefore, a
typical 1,000 gallon tank with a 4-foot
liquid capacity should be pumped when the solids are 1-foot
thick in the bottom of the tank. If the tank is not easily accessible,
you may wish to inspect and pump it according to the frequency
guidelines in Table 1. Your local
health department should be able to tell you the size of your tank.
When inspecting the tank, check the sanitary tee or the outlet baffle
to be sure that it has not broken off and dropped into the tank. Also,
be sure to have both compartments of the tank pumped.
| Table
1.
Estimated Septic Tank Inspection and Pumping Frequency in
Years |
Tank
Size
(gallons) |
Number of People
Using the System |
| 1 |
2 |
4 |
6 |
8 |
| 900 |
11 |
5 |
2 |
1 |
<1 |
| 1,000 |
12 |
6 |
3 |
2 |
1 |
| 1,250 |
16 |
8 |
3 |
2 |
1 |
| 1,500 |
19 |
9 |
4 |
3 |
2 |
| Source: Adapted
from "Estimated Septic Tank Pumping Frequency," by
Karen Mancl, 1984. Journal of Environmental Engineering.
Volume 110. |
If the septic system is not used very
often (as in an infrequently used vacation home with a correctly sized
tank), it will probably not need to be pumped as frequently as
indicated in the table. If you use a garbage disposal, the tank may
need to be pumped more frequently. After a few inspections, you should
be able to adjust the schedule according to the rate at which solids
accumulate.
Make sure you are aware of the types
and amounts of extra waste materials that are poured down the drain.
Limiting the use of your garbage disposal will minimize the flow of
excess solids to your tank. Garbage disposals usually double the
amount of solids added to the tank.
Do not pour cooking greases, oils,
and fats down the drain. Grease hardens in the septic tank and
accumulates until it clogs the inlet or outlet. Grease poured down the
drain with hot water may flow through the septic tank and clog soil
pores completely.
Pesticides, paints, paint thinners,
solvents, disinfectants, poisons, and other household chemicals should
not be dumped down the drain into a septic system because they may
kill soil microorganisms that help purify the sewage. Also, some
organic chemicals will flow untreated through the septic tank and the
soil, thus contaminating the underlying groundwater.
No. These products include
biologically based materials (bacteria, enzymes, and yeast), inorganic
chemicals (acids and bases), or organic chemicals (including
solvents). They do not reduce the need for regular pumping of the
septic tank. Some of these products contain organic chemicals and may
even damage the drainfield or contaminate the groundwater and nearby
wells.
Yes. The drainfield does not have an
unlimited capacity. The more water your family uses, the greater the
likelihood of problems with the septic system.
Water conservation practices can help
reduce the amount of wastewater generated in the home. Periodically
check your plumbing for leaky faucets and toilets. Uncorrected leaks
can more than double the amount of water you use. Many soils that can
absorb the 200 to 250 gallons of sewage
usually produced each day by a family of four would become waterlogged
if an extra 250 gallons were added. For more information
on this subject see North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service
publications HE-250, Focus
on Residential Water Conservation and HE-213, Water
Management Checklist for the Home.
Be sure that foundation drains, roof
waters, gutter waters, and surface waters from driveways and other
paved areas do not flow over the septic tank or the drainfield.
Careful landscaping can help direct excess surface waters away from the
system.
Other types of septic systems are
sometimes used on sites where the soil is not suited to a conventional
system. Where soils are too wet or too shallow for the conventional
system, the drainfield might be placed very close to the ground
surface in the upper layers of the soil. In some wet soils, artificial
drainage around the septic system lowers the level of the shallow
water table. On some clayey soils that have a thick sandy surface, the
low-pressure pipe (LPP) system provides an alternative. A wrapped pipe
8 to 10 inches in diameter is sometimes used in
gravelless, hand-dug trenches on very steep slopes.
On some soils that are not deep
enough to provide adequate treatment of the sewage effluent, it may be
possible to use an aerobic treatment unit (ATU) to supplement the
soil's treatment capacity.
The septic system is an efficient,
inexpensive, and convenient method for treating and disposing of
household wastewater. Because not all soils are suited for
conventional systems, a comprehensive soil and site investigation must
be performed before you purchase any land.
Septic systems will adequately absorb
and purify wastewater if they are properly maintained. A few
precautions can save you anguish and money. Reducing water use,
avoiding grease, pumping the tank periodically, and properly
landscaping the yard to keep surface water away from the tank and
drainfield are inexpensive precautions that can help assure your
system a long life. The Cooperative Extension Service publication (AG-439-22)
Septic
System Owner's Guide summarizes some important day-to-day
management and periodic maintenance activities to improve the
longevity of your system. When properly located and maintained, your
system should provide years of trouble-free, low-cost service.
Tyler, E. T.,
R. Laak, E. McCoy, and S. S. Sandhu.
1977. "The Soil as a Treatment System." in Home Sewage
Treatment. ASAE publication 5-77.
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